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Removing Water Pump
01-23-2019, 07:20 AM,
Removing Water Pump
What is the best way to remove the water pump off of the Overland 85-6 engine?  This is next in the stage of restoration, having already done the generator and the starter.  

I have taken off the timing cover and removed the coupling off of the generator.  I unbolted the front half of the water pump, but cannot get it past the key, which is unremoveable at this point.  The front have of the water pump housing isn't budging (neither is the impeller) and the distributor is stuck in place.  I took out the set screw from the distributor.  

My thoughts are that the timing gear must have to be removed in order to remove the water pump shaft.  Any advice from you experienced mechanics?  Thanks.

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01-23-2019, 08:35 AM,
RE: Removing Water Pump 1917 85-6
Here are some more pics

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01-26-2019, 06:50 AM,
RE: Removing Water Pump
Cant be of much use, but before removing the gear, I would clean up all the front and look for timing marks, then check for flywheel marks, get the engine up to number 1 TDC on compression and check if the marks line up, then hopefully everything will be timed up when you replace the gear.
01-28-2019, 05:29 AM,
RE: Removing Water Pump
I would have said it was made so that after the dynamo, distributor unit and timing gear is removed ( I wouldn't have thought it has timing marks or necessary to have them on that gear as the distributor gear could be dropped in any position) pump and shaft hopefully will pull out as a hole unit so it can be worked on, I notice there are some bits missing, as the shaft rotates clock wise a left hand? threaded gland nut from the distributor housing and the pump also lacks something in that part by the look of things, I always replace the old iron shafts with stainless steel and keep to the old type of packing they work for many years without much attention.
01-30-2019, 08:59 PM, (This post was last modified: 01-30-2019, 10:08 PM by David Bliss.)
RE: Removing Water Pump
I go to great lengths when taking apart any corroded and frozen together parts that people say that can't be stripped without destroying some part to preserve another. I often spend more time making tools to take apart something than it takes in making the replacement part. If castings are ever needed, even if the corroded remains are fragile, it helps me making the pattens or in the machining process because I can setup the old as a guide making it simple to transfer measurements in machining the other part.

The 1928 Sunbeam kept me busy for a few months as it had stood for over sixty years. One part I was particularly proud of getting apart and making new parts for was the Clayton-Dewandre brake servo with a combination of metals, aluminium, steel and Zinc die-cast.

Often impellers on the 1911 Darracq water pump are just screwed on, this one has a left handed thread. 

If things are corroded and rusty its a good idea to carefully clean things before you try to taking apart. If the component can be taken off as a whole unit I gently use a grit blast cabinet, there may be pins holding something or unseen cracks. With water pumps I use stainless shafts and I can often spot design weaknesses in the old components and will modify.     


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